Un jeune Romand raconte la «guerre des sneakers»

By Theo Manzinali

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Un jeune Romand raconte la «guerre des sneakers»

https://www.watson.ch/fr/societe/mode/259969508-theo-de-resell-lausanne-raconte-la-guerre-de-la-basket

 

Théo Manzinali, alias resell_lausanne sur Instagram, est depuis plusieurs années un «sneakers plug» réputé. Ces spécialistes du marché de la basket, endossent le costume du sauveur qui vous déniche le modèle que vous désespérez de trouver. Le jeune homme de 24 ans et son associé Alessio ont ouvert le 8 février leur premier lieu de vente (du même nom que son compte Instagram), dans le quartier du Flon, à Lausanne.


Lancer sa boutique pourrait laisser présager d'un succès florissant. Sauf que Théo expose clairement les failles de son business, parlant d'une clientèle qui s'est effilochée ces 10 dernières années.

«Les marges sont dérisoires»

Le natif concède que «les marges sont dérisoires». La plupart de ses ventes varient entre 139 et 199 francs et il confie tirer «10 à 12% de bénéfice par paires». Il poursuit:

«Lors d'un petit mois, je vends cinq paires en moyenne par jours. Normalement, c’est 10-15 ventes quotidiennes»

Le constat est sans appel, selon Théo: «C’est pour ça que 90% des revendeurs ont arrêté en Suisse, voire partout en Europe». Selon lui, il faut investir beaucoup d’argent et ce n'est pas à la portée de tout le monde. «Il y a huit ans, les jeunes qui se sont lancés ont vu qu'il était possible de se faire 300 francs de bénéfice sur une paire achetée à 100 francs. Aujourd'hui, on peut espérer 300 francs de bénéfice sur 30 ventes.»

Si sa boutique ne lui permet de remplir les caisses, elle lui confère une certaine légitimité.

«Les clients sont rassurés de voir un magasin physique et non l'adresse de ma chambre à Bussigny. Mais qu'on se le dise: mon principal revenu, c’est ma boutique en ligne. Le 90% de mon chiffre d'affaires est en ligne».

Le jeune Lausannois ne s'en cache pas, cette vie de revendeur lui cause quelques tourments:

«C'est un pari risqué. Ce n’est pas viable. Je me fais 13-14h par jours de job. J’essaie de récupérer 1% de marge par-ci, par-là. Il suffit 2-3 mauvaises décisions pour que tout se complique.»

Théo sent qu'il sera difficile d'en vivre pleinement. «On essaie, on verra bien», souffle-t-il, pas désabusé, mais comme un brin déçu ne pas avoir vécu la période dorée juste avant le Covid.

Un tournant en 2016

«Ça fait depuis 2016 que la sneakers s'est vraiment démocratisée et la revente a vécu un âge d'or», enchaîne-t-il. Ce tournant (marketing) est lié à l'arrivée de Kanye West et son modèle Adidas 350 Yeezy. «Il y a eu énormément de demandes et le grand public a vu qu'il était possible de se faire des marges intéressantes». Il détaille:

«Les baskets valaient 220 francs à l'achat sur le site officiel d'Adidas et la revente pouvait monter à 1000 francs. Forcément, il y a eu des intéressés.»

Son compère Alessio approuve: «En 2016-2017, c'est là que les baskets sont devenues plus mainstream». Les deux comparses assurent que les stars et les people ont démocratisé cette tendance, à travers Instagram - une plateforme qui peut décider de la cote de popularité d'une paire.

Et les collaborations ont plu. Les sneakers sont devenues une œuvre d'art, les marques ont enrôlé des poids lourds tels que Pharrell Williams ou encore Virgil Abloh (le feu fondateur de la marque Off-White et ancien directeur artistique de Louis Vuitton). Ce dernier a débarqué dans le game de la pompe, déclenchant une ruée vers ses créations.

«C’est à ce moment qu’il y a eu des personnes qui ont commencé à camper devant les boutiques»
Théo

Des groupes WhatsApp se sont alors créés et les réseaux ont commencé à fleurir un peu partout.

«C’est un travail de recherche entre privé. Les plus anciens travaillent avec des groupes Facebook, en compilant au fur et à mesure des contacts, année après année.»
Théo, revendeur de sneakers.

Aujourd'hui, Théo passe par des groupes sur le réseau social Discord, où «5000 à 6000 personnes» échangent des offres et demandes partout en Europe. C’est un groupe «want to buy», où chacun peut formuler une demande pour le modèle qu'il souhaite acheter. «C’est un groupe où tu paies un abonnement mensuel de 10 francs pour se débarrasser des scams». Car la mauvaise affaire peut vite arriver - les arnaqueurs guettent. Dans un élan de stress, lorsque le prix semble correct et l'offre dans les clous, les revendeurs comme Théo peuvent perdre en vigilance, comme il le confie:

«L'arnaque est vite arrivée, parce qu'il y a tellement d'argent en jeu et de demandes d'achats sur des groupes. Il y a des dizaines de demandes de bannissements dans le groupe Discord dans lequel je me trouve.»

Il nous glisse que ses réseaux sont européens et ne se font quasiment jamais sur notre territoire. Il ajoute qu'«en Suisse, il n'y a pas de revendeurs». Ces derniers se trouvent surtout dans les pays de l'Est. Pour trouver ses paires, c'est donc en Pologne ou encore en Roumanie qu'il fait ses emplettes. «Là-bas, les gens s’intéressent moins à ces chaussures. Ils ont des stocks, mais il y a très peu de demande».


Et si le marché se diversifie énormément et qu'il grossit, le métier n'est pas tous les jours facile. Certes, «les gens sont moins choqués de mettre de 200 à 300 francs dans une paire de baskets», confirme Théo, mais les marges sont désormais «de plus en plus fines».

 

Alessio complète:

«La tendance va vite et certains modèles perdent rapidement de la valeur»

Selon Théo, le marché général des sneakers a perdu «en moyenne 60% de sa valeur».


Et pourquoi un tel fléchissement? «Les gens n'ont plus autant d'argent et je dirais que c'était surévalué», expose le Lausannois. Une bulle a explosé après une grosse hype et «maintenant, c'est la guerre à qui arrive à écouler sa marchandise en pratiquant des bas prix».

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